A - Oil wooden dowel to prevent it from drying out.
B - Wrap it in a thin piece of light cloth.
C - Insert the covered dowel into PVC and push/hammer it to about 1/2" from the top end. The stick should fit snugly and not rattle.
D - Insert metal bolt or pipe piece into the hilt end. Wrap it in cloth and/or duct tape to make a tight fit. Place some tape over the bottom.
E - Tape the length of the PVC and wrap the tip with a small amount to prevent the tip from cutting the foam.
F - Use a strong spray-on foam adhesive to glue on the edges making sure they are lined up.
G - Glue on the flat sides. Construct a nicely shaped guard from foam and tape. Tape it on securely.
H - Cut and shape the pommel.
I - Tape the pommel on firmly.

J - Cut the foam to fit the end and tape it firmly in place. Cut a triangular piece of soft spongy foam for the tip. Tape this very lightly and do not compact it. 2" of firm foam and 1" of soft foam must be over the core tip.
K - Put a layer of tape over the blade edges and flat sides to shape and conform the foam (not too tightly) to the core. Make a grip by wrapping the handle with cloth, string or leather. Finally, with strong thread sew a cloth cover over the blade out of a soft canvas material. Triple stitch it and place the stitches off center of one side (not on the edge where most impacts are made). Do not make it tight enough to compact the foam. attach the cover on just above the hilt with some tape.

* Note: To ensure proper weight and balance, the ARMA Medieval swords use a 3" - 6" steel bolt or small 1/4" hollow steel pipe inside the core of their hilts and a 2" - 3" one in the tip. Although this may seem disconcerting, the metal is fully encased, fully padded and completely secure.