Note: As of March 1998, ARMA implemented the use of a new "2nd generation" contact-sparring sword and discontinued primary use of earlier designs. Specific instructions for using the new design with Renaissance style swords will be forthcoming soon.

For a cut and thrust style sword, use a 3/4" PVC, schedule 40, and a 7/8" or 9/16" wooden dowel. Only 3/4" of foam needs to be used for the edges. Overall width should be about 3". The internal bolts should be about 3"-4" long for the hilt end and 1"-2" for the tip. For single-edged backswords, only 1/2" of foam need be used for the back edge. For a swept-hilt, you need to construct finger-rings (anellets) and usually a knuckle guard and side-rings. Simply make these out of dense foam tightly taped or thin pieces of water hose padded and taped (do NOT use any wire). Attach the various parts of the swept hilt to the bottom end of the blade. For the ricasso (used in the "fingering" method of gripping), you will need to leave 1 " of the PVC pipe bare and exposed. Do not cover it with foam. Additional strips of foam and tape can be added to make a cage, clam-shell, or basket style hilt. Since the diameter of the PVC for this type of sword is so thin, you will also need to build up the grip of the handle using wooden slats or some other rigid material, else it will be too small and round.

Note: Some people have difficulty getting the correct PVC and stick for their contact-sparring swords. Schedule 40 PVC has a 1/8" thick wall for better strength. PVC is labeled according to it's inside diameter (so a 1" is more like 1 1/4, while a 1/2" pipe is actually about 3/4"), this leaves only about 1/16" or so of space to fit your stick into. You should make sure your wooden dowel fits inside before you buy anything (both can sometimes be made too thick!). Also, when you wrap your stick with cloth or duct tape to make it fit snugly inside, be sure not to use too much or it will not only be hard to get in, it will become stuck halfway inside and be impossible to remove!